Method of charting dress-patterns.



H. J. KRAMER METHOD OF GHARTING DRESS PATTERNS.

APPLICATION FILED FEB.6,1913.

1,098,736, Patented June 2,1914.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

Witnesses. Inventor. Z1 I Harry J. Kramer, WA M. byM #KMM Attj s.

H. J. KRAMER.

METHOD OF GHARTING DRESS PATTERNS.

APPLIGATION FILED PEB.Q,1913.

1,098,736, Patented June 2, 1914.

4 SHEETS-SHEBT 2.

Masses. I Inventor. flail .fiw Harry J. Kramer W 49. M. byfwm Attys.

H. J. KRAMER. METHOD OF GHARTING DRESS PATTERNS.

APPLIOATION FILED FEB.6,1913.

1,098,736. Patented June 2, 1914.

i 4 BHEBTBSHEET 3.

Witnesses. Inventor,

- HaTry J. KTameT. W04 M. by fififs.

H. J. KRAMER.

METHOD OF GHARTING DRESS PATTERNS. APPLICATION FILED IBB. 6,'I913.

4 QHEETB-BHBET 4.

In'vemor. I-IawylKTamer.

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HARRY :r. KRAMER, or nosrorir, nassecnusnrrs.

METHOD OF CHARTING DRESS-PATTERNS.

weaves,

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented J 11110 2, 1914.

Application filed February 6, 1913. Serial No. 746,496.

10 (ZZZ whom it may concern Be it known that I, HARRY J. KRAMER, a citizen of the United States, residing at Boston, county of Suffolk, State of Massaclrusetts, have invented an Improvement in Methods of Charting Dress'Patterns, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawing, is a specification, like characters on the drawing representing like parts.

This invention relates to a method of laying out a garment pattern, and has for its object to provide a novel method by which the front, back and shoulder lines of the garment pattern can be laid out and determined from angular measurements based on the circumferential measure of the armhole and on the cross back measurements.

I will first describe one embodiment of my invention and then point out the novel features thereof in the appended claims.

Referring to the drawings, Figure 1 is a diagram. view showing the method employed for laying off the lines of the front and back portion of a garment pattern; Fig. 2 is a view showing a plate provided with the measurements for different sizes of garments; Fig. 3 is an. enlarged section on the line m, Fig. 2; Fig. & is a diagram showing the outline of the sections of the body and skirt portion of a particular garment pattern made in accordance with this invention; Fig. 5 shows the manner of grouping the skirt portions of the garment pattern to provide for locating the position of the bottom line of the skirt.

In carrying out my invention I first take the circumferential measure of the armhole of the person for whom the garment is being made and then determine the shoulder line and the cross back line by angular measurements based on the armhole size and cross back measure of said person. In order to give a clear understanding of the invention it will first refer to the diagram shown in Fig. 1. After taking the circumferential measure of the arm-hole I draw on the pap r, cloth, or other material from which the pattern is to be made, a base line 1 2, then I lay off on this line two points 34, which are a distance apart equal to one fourth of the above armhole measure, and then lay off another point 5 a distance from the point 3 also equal to one-fourth of the armhole measure, I also measure oil on the base line 12 from the point 3 a distance equal to two-thirds of the armhole measure thereby to secure the point 7. T iis gives the points 5, 3, t and 7 on the base line 1-2. The points 3 and t are the points for opposite sides of the armhole which is drawn in, a will be presently described, and the points 5 and 7 are the base points from which the shoulder lines are drawn. After thus determining the points 5 and 7 the shoulder line 5-6 is drawn at an angle of approximately 34 from the base line 1, and the other shoulder line 7-8 is drawn from the point 7 at approximately 17 from the base line.

In order to get the armhole I first lay oft on the base line 12 a distance from the point 3 equal to one-third of the armhole size, thus defining the point 11. From the point 11 a line ll-12 is drawn at an angle of approximately thirteen and a half degrees from the base line 1 below the latter, and a line 4 13 is drawn from the point 4 at an angle of 27 from the base line below the latter. The contour of the armhole is then drawn in by first drawing the are 39 from the point 7 as a center, then drawing the arc 312 from the point 11 as a center; drawing the arc 12-13 from the point 14- as a center where the two lines 11-12 and 4t13 cross, and then drawing the semi-circle 13 lfrom the center point 15 of the line 4L -1B. The remaining portion of the armhole is sketched in by drawing a curve from the point +t to a point in the line 5-6, which point 10 is located by dfawing a line from the point 4. on the base line 1-2 at an angle of 56 thereto, such line being the line 4.10. After the straight line 4.'l0 is thus drawn, then the curved line t-10 representing the armhole can be readily sketched in. The lines 8 9, 610 as thus developed constitute the shoulder lines of the front and back of the pattern.

The armhole notch where the under arm seam of the sleeve is to come is determined by drawing a line from the point at an angle of approximately 63 from the line t13, and Where this line cuts the arc %t-13 at the point 18 is the proper point for the armhole notch. To determine the line at the center of the back, I lay off through the point 5 the cross back line 1920 at an angle of approximately 7 from the base line 1 2, and then one-half of the back measure of the person for whom the pattern is being out will be laid off on this cross back line from the point 20, thus locating the point 19. The back line S22 is then drawn perpendicularly to the cross back line 1920 through the point 19 as thus determined. This gives the total length of the shoulder line 8 9 and also the direction of the back line 822.

The bust line 2123 is drawn parallel to the base line 12 and tangent to the arc 4-13. One-half of the bust measure of the person for whom the pattern is being made is laid off on this bust line 2123 from the point 21 where the bust line intersects the back line 822 this being the point 23. The point 6 on the shoulder line 56 is located by laying off on this line a distance from the point 10 equal to the distance between the points 8 and 9, and after the point 6 and also the point 23 have thus been located the line 623 is drawn to provide the proper angle for the front center line. The lines of the front and rear shoulder and body portions of the pattern are thus determined. Th lines for the portion of the pattern below the shoulders and bust will, of course, vary, depending on the style and relation between the various measurements of the garment to be made. This same procedure is used in laying out the pattern for any size and proportion, and the only three measurements which are necessary to use for determining the outline of the pattern are the armhole measure, the cross back measure and the bust measure. From these the pat tern can be made, as above described, and when a garment is cut by this pattern and the shoulder edges 89 and 610 are sewed together the garment will have a perfect fit. One advantage of this method is that it enables a dressmaker or tailor to get a perfect fit over the bust regardless of the relative size of the bust and other measurements.

It is a fact that the bust measure of two women who are otherwise of equal proportions may vary greatly, and with my improved method it is possible to draft a pattern perfectly for any woman, regardless of the relation between her bust measure and the other measurements, for by my invention the armhole measure and the shoulder lines 89, 610 and the back line 822 are developed from the armhole size and cross back measure regardless of the bust measure, while the front line 623 is developed or determined solely by the bust measure and without regard to the other measurements.

In order to make my invention one which can be easily used I have provided a plate having thereon the various measurements and pattern outlines for patterns having different-sized armhole measurements so that by laying said plate on the paper, cloth or other material from which the pattern is to be out, a pattern of the proper size and proportion can be quickly marked out without going through the form of laying off the points and angular lines above described. In Figs. 2 and 3 I have shown at 30 a plate of this character which is a plate of sheet material either metal, cardboard, leatherboard, or any other suitable material, and which has therein a plurality of armhole slots 31 representing different sizes of arm hole measurements and laid out in accordance with my method above described; which also has therein a plurality of parallel slots 32 which represent the various shoulder lines 8-9 corresponding to the sizes represented by the armhole slots 31; which also has another set of parallel slots 33 representing the shoulder lines 610 of the pattern shown in F ig. 1 and represent ing the front shoulder lines for the armhole sizes indicated by the slots 31. My improved plate also has a plurality of slots3 representing the bust line for the various armhole slots and another series of slots 35 representing the cross back lines for the various armhole sizes. These various slots may be either continuous slots or intermittent as desired, and they will be numbered to indi cate the armhole size which they represent. With this plate above described, therefore, it is possible for anyone after having taken the armhole measure, cross back measure and bust measure to place the plate on the cloth or paper and then to trace through the alternate slots 31, 32, 33, 3a and 35 on the plate corresponding to the armhole measure. This gives the outline for the pattern based on the armhole measure and the pattern can then be completed by laying off the cross back measure and the bust measure corresponding to the person for whom the pat tern is made.

The line 16-47 on Fig. 1 designates the center line which defines the front and rear portions of the pattern. This line is drawn through the point 15 perpendicular to the base line 1-2. Since this line is always in a fixed position for every size of pattern it is possible to indicate it on the plate 30 by a single slot 36, as indicated in Fig. 2. The armhole notch 18 is also in a fixed position for every size of pattern, and the single slot 37, therefore, in the plate 30 will give the line of this notch. for all sizes of patterns. In using the plate 30 the operator will mark through the slots 36, 37 and then extend the lines so located to make the center line 16-17 on the pattern and also to locate accurately the armhole notch 18.

Referring now to Fig. 1- it will be seen that I have illustrated the outlines of the body and skirt port-ions of a garment pat tern. The outlines of the upper part of the pattern are determined in accordance with the above-described method and the difierent sections of the body and skirt are drawn in according to the desired style oi? garment and size and proportion of the person and by angular measurements. .ln outlining these pattern sections in the first instance the skirt portions thereof overlap each other, as shown, but it will be understood, of course, that when. the final pattern is taken oil the sections of pattern will not have this overlapping relation. These pattern sec tions include a front center section a included between the lines and ll, a front side section Z) included. between the lines t2 and 43, a rear side section 0 included be tween the lines it and L5, and a rear center section (Z included between the lines 46 and 4:7. lit will be understood, of course, that the number, shape and proportions of these sections may be varied according to the size and style oi? the gari'nent.

In order to secure a perfect bottom line to the skirt of the garment, I arrange the pat tern sections as shown in llig. 5. it will be noted and. understood that the edges of each of the skirt sections below the hip line are approximately straight and that the two side lines thereof diverge from each other toward the bottom of the skirt. illhen, therefore, the various pattern sections are arranged with the skirt portions abutting each other, as shown. in Fig. l, the result is a tan-shaped arrangeu'lent. ln order to get the proper line for the bottom of the shirt, the two outer side edges 41 and all; are extended until they meet, as at the point 50, and then an arc is struck from this point- 50 as a center at a proper distance below the waist line or some other fixed point, this giving the curved line 52 which represents the bottom edge of the skirt. By making this line a true are of a circle according to this method, it will follow that it the skirt is made in ex .ct accordance with the pat tern thus produced the bottom edge of the skirt will hang evenly and the dressn'iaker or tailor does not need to use a skirt marker or any other means for securing an even hanging of the skirt as is new the usual custom.

The lines e0, ail, 42, s3, is, 4:5, 46 and 457 are determined by angular measurements. That is, l first determine the total angle desired between the lines ll and 4:6 when the parts oi? the pattern are laid out as seen in Fig. 5 (an angle of 27 is about the proper angle for an'ordinary skirt) and then l: divide this angle between the various seclions of the skirt pattern according to the style of the garment.

In order to secure a perfect neck line I place the back shoulder portion adjacent the :lront shoulder portion. with the lines 8 9 and 6-l0 in alinement. This will. bring the line 8f22 of the back shoulder portion at the position defined by the line 651. then extend this line G51 to make the line 51-59 and then I lay oil on this line 51- 59 from the point (5 a. distance equal to onelitth oi' the neck measure thereby determining the point From the point 53 a line 53-54L is drawn at right angles to the line 5158, and the point 54 where this line meets the line (32-l is the point where the neck line begins. I then lay oil on the line G23 a distance from the point 54- equal to one-sixth of the neck measure thereby determining; the point 5.3:), and l: then lay oil on the line 51 59 from the point 6 a distance equal to the distance G-55 thereby delining the point 57. 'llhe line 57-5(i is then drawn. The point 55 is then. used as a center to strike the arc til--56 and the point 57 where the line 55---57 crosses the line 51-59 is used as a center for striking the are 56-5t3. This curved line 54-. gives the true curve for the neck line, the portion of the curve between the line (l1.0 and the point 58 being that portion of the neck curve which is on the center back section (Z and this curve can be transferred to this center back section (Z to produce the curve 60-61.

By the terms armhole measure and armhole measurement as used in this description and in the claims .l. mean the circumferential measuren'ient oi the armhole.

While I have described one embodiment of my invention. l: do not wish to be limited to the co]istructional :lcatures heroin specified.

Having fully described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is .1. The method of laying out a gar-intuit pattern which consists in laying oil from a point on a base line distances equal to suhstantially one-quarter and two-thirds of the armhole measurement thereby to locate the front and rear sides oi the armhole and the points from which the two shoulder lines are to be drawn, and then drawing said shoulder lines from said points at angles of ld jplfiflllllitfilly 17" and 31%., respectively, to the base line.

2. The method. of laying; out a garment pattern which consists in laying oil from a. point on a. base line distances equal to substantially one-quarter and two-thirds oi? the armhole measure thereby to locate the front and rear sides of the armhole and the points from which the front and rear shoulder lines are to be drawn, drawingsaid front and rear shoulder lines at angles o't approximately 17 and 84, res actively, from said points, and forming the outline of the armhole by arcs struck from ditlcrent centers determined by measurements based on the armhole measurement.

The method of laying out a garment pattern which consists in laying oil from a point on a base line distances equal to substantially one-quarter and twothirds of the armhole measure thereby to locate the front and rear sides of the armhole and the points from which the front and rear shoulder lines are to be crawn, drawing said front and rear shoulder lines at angles of approximately 17 and 3%", respectively, from said points, forming the outline of the armhole by arcs struck from different centers determined by measurements based on the armhole measurement, and then determining a point for the front line by laying off one-half the bust measure on a line parallel to the base line and drawn tangent to the armhole.

i. The method of laying out a garment pattern which consists in laying otl from a point on a base line distances equal to substantially one-quarter and twothirds of the armhole measure thereby to locate the front and rear sides of the armhole and the points from which the front and rear shoulder lines are to be drawn, drawing said front and rear shoulder lines at angles of approximately 17 and 3 11-", respectively, from said points, forming the outline of the armhole by arcs struck from different centers determined by measurements based on the armhole measurement, laying off one-half the cross back measurement on a cross back line drawn through the point of intersection of the front shoulder line and the base line at an angle of approximately 7 to the base line, and drawing the back line perpendicular to said cross back line through the point thus determined.

5. The method of laying out a garment pattern which consists in laying off from a point on a base line distances equal to substantially one-quarter and two-thirds of the armhole measure thereby to locate the front and rear sides of the armhole and the points from which the front and rear shoulder lines are to be drawn, drawing said front and rear shoulder lines at angles of approximately 17 and 34, respectively, from said points, forming the outline of the armhole by arcs struck from different centers determined by measurements based on the armhole measurement, laying off one-half the cross back measurement on a cross back line drawn through the point of intersection of the front shoulder line and the base line at an angle of approximately 7 to the base line, and drawing the back line perpendicular to said cross back line through the point thus determined, the point where said back line meets the rear shoulder line determining the inner end of said shoulder line, and then laying off one-half the bust measure from the back line on a line parallel to the base line and drawn tangent to the armhole.

6. The method of laying out a garment pattern which consists in developing the line for the armhole, shoulder and back from measurements based on the armhole measure and cross back measure, determining the position of the front line of the pattern from the bust and shoulder measure and then determining the line of the neck by drawing a line through the meeting point of the front line and front shoulder line at an angle to the latter line equal to the angle between the back line and rear shoulder line, laying off on the last-drawn line a distance equal to one-fifth of the neck measure and drawing a line perpendicular to said last-drawn line from the point thus determined, thereby to locate the point of intersection between the neck line and the frontline, then laying on the front line from said latter point a distance equal to onesixth of the neck measure, drawing a line through the point thus determined in a direction to make equal angles with the front line and the line drawn through the meeting point of said front line and the front shoulder line, and forming the neck line by arcs struck from said latter point and the point of intersection of the line drawn through said point with the line drawn through the meeting point of the front line and shoulder line, respectively.

7. The method of aying out a garment pattern which consists in laying off from a point on a base line distances equal to substantially one-quarter and two-thirds of the armhole measure thereby to locate the front and rear sides of the armhole and the points from which the front and rear shoulder lines are to be drawn, drawing said front and rear shoulder lines at angles of approximately 1'7 and 34, respectively, from said points, forming the outline of the armhole by arcs struck from difierent centers determined by measurements based on the armhole measure, and drawing the cen ter line perpendicular to the base line through the center of one of said arcs.

8. The method of laying out a garment pattern which consists in laying off from a point on base line distances equal to substantially one-quarter and two-thirds of the armhole measure thereby to locate the front and rear sides of the armhole and the points from which the front and rear shoulder lines are to be drawn, drawing said front and rear shoulder lines at angles of approximately 17 and 34;", respectively, from said points, forming the outline of the armhole by arcs struck from different centers determined by measurements based on the armhole measure, one of said arcs being a semi-circle and drawing the line for the armhole notch from the center of said semi-circular are and at an angle of approximately 63 to the diameter thereof.

9. The method of laying out a garment pattern which consists in laying 05 from a point on a base line distances equal to submemes stantially one-quarter and two-thirds of the armhole measurement thereby to locate the position of the front and rear of the armhole outline and the points from Which the front and rear shoulder lines are to be drawn, drawing said shoulder lines from said points at angles of approximately 17 and 34, respectively, to the base line, determining the position of the back line and by its intersection with one of the shoulder lines the length of both of said shoulder lines, and then determining the position of the front line of the pattern from the bust measure and the shoulder measure.

10. The method of laying out a garmentpattern which consists in laying oii' from a point on a base line distances equal to substantially one-quarter and two-thirds of the armhole measure, thereby to locate the front and rear sides of the armhole and the points from which the front and rear shoulder lines are to be drawn, drawing said -front and rear shoulder lines from said points at angles of approximately 17 and 34, re-

' spectively, from the base line, forming the outline of the rear side and bottom part of the armhole by arcs struck from different centers determined by measurements based on the armhole measure, and then drawing a line from. the front of the armhole to the front shoulder line at an angle of approximately 56 to the base line thereby to determine the armhole end of the front shoulder line.

11. The method of laying out a garment pattern which consists in laying oil from a point on a base line distances equal to substantially one-quarter and two-thirds oi the armhole measure, thereby to locate the front and rear sides of the armhole and the points from which the front and rear shoulder lines are to be drawn, drawing said front and rear shoulder lines from said points, striking an are from the base line at the rear side of the armhole With the point from which the rear shoulder line is drawn as a center thereby to form the rear side of the arm hole outline and determine the armhole end of the rear shoulder line, forming the outline of the bottom portion of the armhole by ares struck from different centers determined by measurements based on the armhole measure, and drawing a line from the front of the armhole and at an angle of approximately 56 from. the base line, thereby to determine the armhole end of the front shoulder line.

In testimony whereof, I. have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing Witnesses.

HARRY J. Kltliltllfili.

Witnesses Bnie'rrm ll. Hansen, FREDERICK S. GREENLEAF.

Gopies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner e1 Patents,

Washington, D. 0. 

